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LIBERATING a wooden floor from beneath an old carpet is an achievable project
It’s no wonder New Zealanders have had a love affair with wooden floors. With their natural wood-grain pattern, floorboards hide a multitude of spills, and provide a neutral backdrop that ties in well with any décor.
As a natural material, wood’s certain degree of flex makes it more comfortable to stand on for extended periods than concrete or tiles. For many homeowners the best thing about wooden floors is that they’re already there.
Most villas and bungalows built in New Zealand during the earlier part of the 20th century were blessed with floors made from durable native timber. It’s just a matter of liberating them from beneath the mouldy old carpet or decades-old Lino.
It is an achievable handyperson’s project to hire a heavy-duty sander for a day and sand back the boards, but it’s a messy and dusty job, so you may prefer to leave it to the professionals, not forgetting it is hard work. Then the sanded boards will need to be stained, oiled or sealed with several coats of polyurethane. Wax and oil give a natural low sheen finish, but require more maintenance, including reapplication every few months. Polyurethane is available in a variety of finishes , from no sheen to high gloss, and will protect the floors for many years.
Currently, one of the most popular treatments for wooden floors is to apply a dark stain before polyurethaning. This grounds the room and can be invaluable in renovated homes in which the flooring throughout is mismatched.
Alternatively, you may apply a diluted whitewash or bleach for a limed effect, or paint the floor in a colour of you choice (use specialist flooring paint for durability).
However, if you don’t have the raw material for a wooden floor already at your toe tips, your investment will need to be far more substantial. Purists who desire a solid tongue-and-groove wood floor will be paying at least $220sq m, including installation, for the privilege. But you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing your floor will probably last longer than you do. If you’re matching existing boards, look for demolition timber. If you’re laying an entire floor, choose plantation timber from renewable sources. A cheaper option than solid wood is an engineered flooring system. These planks look just like solid wood. In fact the, very thin layer, is a veneer of real hardwood. Underneath is a softwood backing.
Although not as durable as solid wood, these can be sanded, to a certain degree, to remove knocks and dents. They come in a multitude of different woods so you can choose dark, light or golden to suit your décor.
Another idea that’ll appeal to the budget-conscious is to lay chipboard or plywood instead of floorboards.
Chipboard is perfectly serviceable in baches and relaxed, unpretentious homes, as long as it is well sealed to protect it from spills.
Plywood comes in large sheets that can be laid whole or cut into large tiles and laid in a checkerboard pattern with the grain going one way and then the other.
Plywood can be stained lighter or darker and gives a groovy retro flavour to a room.
Published by: Henry Althuizen
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